Ethical sandalwood comes from managed plantations, not wild trees. It is documented from tree to bottle and checked by someone other than the seller. Sandalwood is not sustainable by default. Wild stands of several species are in decline, and illegal harvest is a documented problem. This guide sets out the species, the sources, the paperwork and the questions to ask a perfume brand.
TL;DR
- Two species dominate perfumery: Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) and Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum). They differ in scent, price and risk.
- Wild Australian sandalwood is listed as vulnerable by the IUCN. Plantation stock is the sourcing route experts point to.
- Self-declared claims are weak evidence. Independent, audit-based chain of custody is the stronger one.
- In the UK, CITES papers alone do not clear an import. Importers must also meet customs and plant-health requirements.
- Ask any brand for species, origin, plantation or wild status, and the verification method.
Table of Contents
- Is sandalwood sustainable?
- Two species, two scent profiles
- Where sandalwood oil comes from now
- What plantation-grown actually means
- Greenwashing and chain of custody
- UK rules that affect sandalwood supply
- Questions to ask a perfume brand
- Other ingredients with the same pattern
- Caring for a fragrance you have chosen carefully
- Our perspective
- Explore Rook fragrances
- Summary checklist
- FAQ
- Sources
Is sandalwood sustainable?
Some of it is. The answer depends on species, origin and method.
A 2023 review in Plants, People, Planet states that sandalwood and other high-value tree species face significant threat from illegal harvest. It links illegal logging to deforestation, biodiversity loss, human rights abuses and transnational crime.
Coverage in The Guardian reports that wild Australian sandalwood is listed as vulnerable by the IUCN. Experts quoted there warn that natural populations are declining through over-harvesting, climate change and grazing. They say sustainable supply has to rely on managed plantations.
Summary by source type:
| Source | Status | Main risk |
|---|---|---|
| Wild S. album (India, wider region) | Poaching risk | Illegal harvest, no traceability |
| Wild S. spicatum (Western Australia) | IUCN vulnerable | Over-harvest, climate, grazing |
| Plantation S. spicatum | Managed farm forestry | Verification of claims |
| Plantation S. album (Australia, India) | Managed farm forestry | Verification of claims, yield and quality |
Two species, two scent profiles
Most confusion in sourcing starts with the species. The two woods are not interchangeable.
- Santalum album (Indian sandalwood): creamy and rich. Santalol content is high, roughly 70 to 90%.
- Santalum spicatum (Australian sandalwood): drier and greener. Santalol content is lower, roughly 20 to 40%.
These ranges come from practitioner research on sandalwood species and from the wider trade. Perfumers use the two for different purposes. The difference affects both how a fragrance wears and what the oil costs.
A label that says only “sandalwood” does not tell you which wood is inside. It also says nothing about how the wood was grown. A brand that names the species is giving you something checkable.
Where sandalwood oil comes from now
The market has moved. As of October 2025, Australia holds an estimated 69% of global market share and India 20%. The same report describes declining quality and quantity of farm-grown sandalwood in Karnataka. Australia, which once imported seeds from Karnataka, now exports sandalwood oil to the state.
The reported price bands for oil, per kilogram, as of October 2025:
| Oil type | Price per kg |
|---|---|
| Indian sandalwood (S. album) | €1,900 to €4,700 |
| Australian sandalwood (S. spicatum), wild-harvested | €185 to €465 |
| S. album grown on Australian plantations | €650 to €1,400 |
These figures are from the same October 2025 market report. Prices vary by grade and batch.
Two points follow from the table.
- Price does not prove ethics. Wild spicatum is the cheapest line and also the one with an IUCN vulnerable listing.
- Plantation album grown in Australia sits between the two. It offers the album scent profile from a managed source.
Why a very low price is a warning
Sandalwood oil can be diluted or adulterated. A price far below the bands above for a product sold as pure album oil needs an explanation. Ask whether the oil is heartwood-distilled, which species it is, and whether it has been extended with other materials.
What plantation-grown actually means
Plantation sourcing means the trees are planted, managed and harvested as a crop. Wild harvest takes trees from natural stands.
Western Australia is the best-documented example. The Guardian report refers to regeneration programmes run under the Forest Products Commission. The programmes target more than 50,000 seedling establishments a year. Commercial plantation area in the state also rose from 7 to 70 square kilometres between 2000 and 2006, according to the Santalum spicatum entry. Wild stands in the rangelands and Goldfields remained a main source of exports at that time.
Sandalwood is slow-growing. Plantation does not mean instant supply. It means the harvest is planned against replanting.
Indigenous involvement
Ethics covers people as well as trees. Since 2015, Aboriginal Australians have been involved in producing Australian sandalwood oil. The Dutjahn custodians, representing the wider Martu community, co-manage a company in the Gibson Desert region, as the same reference records. Community benefit-sharing is a fair question to put to any supplier.
Greenwashing and chain of custody
Research on the sandalwood trade warns about mixing. Academic work in the Australian Forestry journal is the basis for the advice that buyers should prefer suppliers who allow independent, audit-based verification. Illegitimate wild-harvested wood can enter the supply chain beside plantation stock. A self-declared statement does not rule that out.
The Wiley review makes a related point. Laws against illegal harvest cannot be enforced without forensic tools that independently verify claimed origin or product quality.
A usable chain-of-custody record covers:
- species, in Latin name;
- country and region of origin;
- plantation or wild status;
- harvest and distillation records;
- the party who audited the claim, if any;
- batch or lot reference.
Weak claims look like this:
- “Ethically sourced” with no detail.
- “Sustainable sandalwood” with no species or country.
- A certificate that the brand wrote itself.
UK rules that affect sandalwood supply
UK businesses that import sandalwood material face two separate layers: species-trade controls and customs.
CITES. The UK implements the convention through assimilated Council Regulation 338/97. The Trade in Endangered Species (Amendment) Regulations 2026 amend that regulation. Importers should read the current schedule for the species and parts they handle.
Customs and plant health. GOV.UK’s guide states that importers of plant or animal products must register for restricted goods. A CITES permit is therefore one requirement among several. Having CITES papers does not remove the need to register, to present goods for inspection where required, and to hold origin records.
A brand that imports raw material directly carries these duties. A brand that buys finished oil from a distiller depends on that distiller’s records. In both cases, ask who holds the documents. Importers and brands should take advice from the Animal and Plant Health Agency or a customs adviser on their own consignments.
Questions to ask a perfume brand
Use this list before buying a fragrance that advertises sandalwood.
- Which species is used: album, spicatum, or another?
- Which country and region does the wood come from?
- Is it plantation-grown or wild-harvested?
- Who verifies the claim, and is it independent?
- Is the oil natural, a blend, or partly synthetic?
- Is there a batch or lot reference?
- How are local and Indigenous communities included?
A brand that answers all seven plainly is doing more than most. A brand that answers none is asking for trust without evidence.
Natural or synthetic: both can be defensible
Synthetic sandalwood molecules exist and remove pressure on trees. They are a legitimate choice if declared as such. The ethical problem is concealment, not the molecule. Our guide to perfume sustainability covers green chemistry, refills and life-cycle assessment in more detail.
Other ingredients with the same pattern
Sandalwood is one of several perfumery materials where scarcity, trade law and marketing claims meet. The same questions apply to oud, musk and ambergris.
- Oud: see our beginner guide to oud and ethical sourcing.
- Musk: see our note on musk in perfumery and its alternatives.
- Ambergris: see why ambergris is not vegan under certification rules.
For a wider checklist, see eight checks for socially conscious perfumes.
Caring for a fragrance you have chosen carefully
After the purchase, wear it with the same care. Perfume oils can mark delicate materials. If you wear jewellery with natural gemstones or pearls, this guide on wearing pearls and perfume together explains the order of application.
Our perspective
We are an independent, cruelty-free fragrance house. Our perfumes are unisex and each one is built around a memory or a story. That shapes how we read the sandalwood question.
Our position:
- A sourcing claim is only as strong as the evidence behind it.
- Species, origin and method should be stated, not implied.
- Independent verification counts for more than a brand’s own statement.
- Natural and synthetic materials can both be ethical when declared accurately.
- Customers should be able to ask about ingredients and receive a direct answer.
This article does not state that any specific Rook fragrance contains sandalwood. For the composition of a given scent, read its product page or contact us.
We also think smelling comes before buying. That is why we offer discovery sets: you can test several scents on skin before choosing a full bottle.
— Rook
Explore Rook fragrances
Rook sells Eau de Parfum, Parfum and Extrait in the perfumes collection. Room Spray and Ambient Spray are in the home fragrance range. The discovery set with a voucher of up to £30 lets you try scents before committing to a bottle. Woody options include Forest Eau de Parfum, built on pine and cedar.
Summary checklist
| Check | Good sign | Warning sign |
|---|---|---|
| Species | Latin name stated | “Sandalwood” only |
| Origin | Country and region | “Imported” or none |
| Method | Plantation, documented | Wild or unstated |
| Verification | Independent audit | Self-declared |
| Price | Consistent with grade | Far below market bands |
| Composition | Natural or synthetic declared | Unstated blend |
FAQ
Is sandalwood sustainable?
Plantation-grown sandalwood can be. Wild sandalwood is under pressure: the IUCN lists wild Australian sandalwood as vulnerable, according to reporting in The Guardian. Look for named species, a named origin and independent verification.
Which country has the best sandalwood?
It depends on the scent wanted. India produces Santalum album, which is creamy and high in santalol. Australia holds an estimated 69% of the global market and supplies mainly Santalum spicatum, plus plantation album, per the October 2025 market report. Ethics depends on the supplier, not the country alone.
How much does sandalwood oil cost?
Reported bands for October 2025 are €1,900 to €4,700 per kilogram for Indian album oil. Wild-harvested Australian spicatum is €185 to €465 per kilogram, and Australian plantation album is €650 to €1,400 per kilogram, as reported. Perfume-grade oil varies by batch.
Can a UK business import sandalwood with CITES papers alone?
No. CITES documents are one requirement. GOV.UK guidance also requires importers of plant products to register, and goods may need inspection. Importers should confirm requirements for their own consignment with the relevant authority.
Sources
- Safeguarding sandalwood: a review of tools for sustainable and legal forestry (Plants, People, Planet, 2023)
- Wiley full-text version of the same review
- The Guardian: Australian sandalwood is coveted worldwide but at risk
- The New Indian Express: Australia now exports sandalwood oil to Karnataka
- Australian Forestry (Taylor & Francis) article on sandalwood trade
- Santalum spicatum (Wikipedia)
- The Trade in Endangered Species (Amendment) Regulations 2026, Explanatory Memorandum
- GOV.UK: Get UK customs clearance when importing goods
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