What oils to buy as a beginner?

Following my last blog I have had a few emails asking which oils a beginner should start with. The answer is there is no "should" as such - what I will provide is a list you "could" start with that will allow you to create a complete scent. 

Essential Oils 

These are natural ingredients which themselves contain many different aroma chemicals

Sweet Orange

Aroma Chemicals 

Synthetic or naturally derived components 

Stemone - a leaf green, grassy note
Linalool - deep rosewood, woody, floral blender
Citronellol - light floral rose
Geraniol - heavier floral rose
Phenylethyl alcohol - a more youthful rosey floral note
Silvial - white floral, lily of the valley
Vanillin - a synthetic woody/floral/vanilla note
Ambroxan - woody amber/ambergris
Hedione - key component of jasmine notes, excellent for diffusivity
Galaxolide 50 - transparent white musk
Ethylene Brassylate - floral, animalic and powdery musk, very tenacious
Tonalid - white musk, think clean laundry
Iso E super - useful blender for woody and floral notes, helps diffusivity
Timbersilk/Sylvamber - alternative to Iso E, each has its own more woody/ambery facets
Isoeugenol - spicy, carnation, floral
Everynyl - warm, earthy, oakmoss substitute
Safraleine - saffron/leather/rose, complex, a sort of my little pony vibe at times
Alpha ionone - my favourite violet note component
Orivone - warm, earthy orris, heart note
Coumarin - tonka, hay, warm, long lasting base note
Alpha - pinene - quintessential pine note
Sandalmysore - warm, sweet, sandalwood note

This list is by no means exhaustive, but I hope a helpful start!


Hi Nadeem

I have bought many of your wonderful fragrances and I am a huge fan – thank you so much for this list which is incredibly useful and interesting. As Thurible is my favourire of your fragrances, I’m curious to know which of the aroma chemicals had to be replaced because of new legislation? I had though that ingredients originating from animals had been mostly banned? Civet springs to mind? Really pleased to have a spare bottle of the original formulation as I do think it’s a triumph.

Thanks and kind regards

Geoff Lewis-Hallett

Geoffrey Lewis-Hallett March 28, 2022

Very nice useful and informative

Atta ullah KHAN NIAZI March 28, 2022

This information is very helpful. Though I have some questions to ask.
My question is this, the Aroma Chemical, is it among the list of chemicals i should buy, or is the essential oils I will buy to mix.
What is the quantity of each oil i should mix and get the right home perfume.


Sogie Ebolo March 28, 2022

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